THE GOAL:Help to reverse the long-standing trend to overeating by ending “portion distortion.”THE PLAN: Take the lead in driving sensible small-portion approaches to menu design and xecution. THE PAYOFF: The right approach to portion size can lead to multiple benefits: faster service, great-tasting food, reasonable cost, and fewer calories, to help get members’ and guests’ diets under control.

The numbers add up to a weighty—and scary—story:

• 28% (how many more calories we consume when we eat “low-fat” foods);

• 30% to 50% (how much more people will eat in restaurant portions than at home);

• 36% (increase in the size of the average dinner plate since 1960);

• 62% (how much serving sizes have increased since The Joy of Cooking was first published in 1920).

“Americans are gaining one to two pounds a year with no end in sight,” Paul O’Toole, Executive Chef of Deerfield Golf & Tennis Club in Newark, Del., told attendees of the C&RB 2009 Chef to Chef Conference in his presentation on Portion Size. “We’ve been trained to eat what’s put in front of us and always ‘clean our plates.’  ‘Portion distortion’ starts at age three and hasn’t stopped in the era of ‘Supersize Me.’ ”

Club and resort chefs are in a great position, however, to take the lead in shrinking the numbers and reversing these disturbing trends, O’Toole suggested, by embracing true smaller portion concepts. In the process, they can improve cost-efficiencies in their F&B operations while also doing the right things for their members and guests.

These “small plates,” O’Toole stressed, shouldn’t be confused with tapas, or “little plates,” which are small servings of a wide variety of foods traditionally paired with wine and eaten in mini-courses. “This style of eating can be confusing as diners sometimes are unsure of portion size,” he noted. “People tend to over-order from these types of menus, even though prices are less per plate. That leads to sticker shock. From the kitchen’s perspective, the tapas means more serving and washing, and as much or more labor.”

That’s not to say tapas-style menus can’t still be part of the solution, O’Toole said, but he also pointed to (and showed examples of) other effective smaller portion approaches, including dim sum, large appetizers, and half-sized entrees (see photo below). “You can make these for half the cost, serve them for three-fourths the price, and have a satisfied guest who will not be overeating,” he said.

He presented one protein/cost comparison of a menu featuring a 3-oz. filet, wild mushroom bread pudding and smaller portions of cranberries, anna potatoes and grilled fennel, vs. one with an 8-oz. cut and regular bread pudding. The first menu (sold at $15) had 400 calories and an 18% food cost; the second (sold at $28) had 951 calories and 26% costs.