The members of The French Club are well-versed in fine cuisine and express their passion with great enthusiasm. During the evenings, the club hosts private dinners for members and groups such as “The Wine and Food Society of San Francisco” and the “Commanderie de Bordeaux.”
Obviously, the chef ’s role in this process is critical. Bernard Chirent, Executive Chef at The French Club, is uniquely qualified to keep things fresh at this very special place. What a resume Chef Bernard has! Most recently, before arriving at the club in August of 2003, he was Executive Chef at San Francisco’s renowned Fairmont Hotel. Bernard’s experience also includes tours opening restaurants around the world in the corporate sector, and a six-year period as chef-proprietor of his own restaurant, which received a two-fork Michelin Guide rating.
Chef Bernard Chirent has been working in kitchens since beginning his apprenticeship as a 14-year-old in 1969. He shows no signs of slowing down, running half-and full-distance marathons while piloting his very active and creative kitchen.To complement the primary food and beverage feature on beer, wine and spirits service in this issue of C&RB, we are very fortunate to have Bernard share his philosophies on food and wine pairings. Enjoy! Q Chef, you say things like “Don’t be classic” and “Be original” when discussing appropriate food and wine pairings in club settings. Can you expand on this and give us a couple of examples? A It doesn’t take much imagination to serve a famous Burgundy, Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Chardonnay—and these wines are usually expensive. I suggest that you search out reasonably priced wines that come from small vineyards from any of the world’s grape-growing regions. For example, I am fond of Bourgogne Aligote and Saint Veran. Serve them in an unexpected pairing, such as with an ahi tuna dish. Another unexpected pairing is foie gras torchonwith fig compote, served with Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Rouge 1996, a reasonably priced wine that is delicious. And don’t overlook Rosé.
Q I see that there is interesting seafood on all of your menus; you are obviously very strong in this area. You say that you love to pair great fish with red wine. Can you share a few examples with us where you have been successful with these pairings, and tell us why they work? A For a cookbook that I wrote and published in France in 1985, I developed a recipe for Black Sea Bass with a Black Pepper Red Wine Sauce . I began to serve it in my restaurant and have continued to do so as I’ve moved on to other places. It is a surprise for the guests and always well-received. The same red wine sauce also pairs well with monkfish and turbot, and can be served with a Pinot Noir.
Q Chef, I’ve never done a champagne dinner, but would like to. What tips could you give me to pull this off? A A little research in advance diminishes the challenge. It’s also a pleasurable endeavor, as you can do some tasting to see what you like and become familiar with which champagnes and sparkling wines are sweet or crisp. Here, too, don’t overlook the pink ones; in fact, pink champagne is perhaps my favorite. An all vegetarian menu would be interesting to serve for an all-champagne meal. Here is a sample menu, with an all-champagne pairing for each dish:
• Lobster salad with lobster vinaigrette, paired with Champagne Taittinger Blanc de Blanc
• Scallops with lemon grass brochette fennel sauce, paired with Champagne Deutz brut
• Veal loin, brunoise of zucchini rosemary jus, paired with Champagne Rose Crystal Roederer
• Sable royal with raspberries, paired with Champagne semi-dry or dry
Q You have said that your favorite wines are Pouilly Fuissé and Pinot Noir, specifically Russian River Pinot Noir. What foods do you like to use these wines with on your menus? A I like serving Pouilly Fuissé with foie grasand shellfish such as scallops, oysters and langoustine. Pinot Noir is great with grilled rib-eye steak and pork tenderloin. The unexpected here would be the Pouilly Fuissé with foie gras, and a Pinot Noir with steak.
Q Finally, Chef, what comparisons can you draw between your homeland of France and the wine country of northern California and its fertile farm region? A Rather than a comparison that finds differences, I find the two regions much the same. France is known as the “Bread Basket of Europe,” producing some of the world’s best wine, cheese, dairy, seafood, and produce. The same can be said of Northern California, with the addition of the locally farmed and delicious caviar. In both places, the producers have a passionate respect for their products. Working in these areas, it is especially easy for me to work with vendors and find wonderful ingredients.
Jerry Schreck is a member of the Club & Resort Business Editorial Advisory Board and writes frequently for C&RB on club-specific culinary topics. Have a topic you’d like to see Jerry address in a future issue? A question about a specific F&B challenge you’re facing at your club? Or would you just like to invite Jerry to visit your club sometime to exchange ideas? Write to him at [email protected]
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